Cyclades

Astypalaia slowly disappeared into the distance as to Ios we head motor sailing.  While I would love to be cruising new waters, it is a comfort being familiar with potential anchor spots especially when doing a long day. Not long by Australian standards but as no destination is too far away in the Med we only day sail, very civil.

Arrived at Manganari, remote beach spot on eastern end of IOS and despite dubious anchoring cos while it looked sandy it was actually on rock but we ended up snug albeit with a rowdy chain all night as it moved over rock.... being in the v berth has some serious disadvantages! 

Clear blue water but sadly no fish wanting to join us however I did make brave attempts. After a quick dip we headed 20 nm for an unplanned stop at Folengandros as I had received a message from old MLC friend, Lea, holidaying in the same bit of sea so wonderful opp of catchup.

Folengandros is a delightful small untouristed island with only room for six yachts on the quay however it does have a tendency for significant surge so it is imperative your anchor is firm and it can be quite taxing walking the plank to the quay. We desperately needed water and Lea sent a photo of brand new power and water connections on the quay but good Ol Greece was true to form and no one could actually turn it on so we had to get the local guy with a water tank on the back of a ute! 

There is only one taxi but it is not hard to find a local willing to run you up the hill to the chora village for the cost of the taxi. There are some upmarket but discrete resorts built in the white house style on the cliff edge so have spectacular views and, with the cafes, they surround the local square with the most enormous tree providing a haven from the summer heat.
Courtesy of Leas resort room I had the luxury of a bath and fabulous evening with Lea, Geoff and their friends all from Oz.

 Mind you I borrowed a parka for the evening as it was very cool for dinner in the square and we shared the space with a local wedding - like from the movie!

Santorini beckoned for Wendy and Peter but due to silting it has very little berthing options for yachts so off to IOS and the town quay where they caught a ferry

and thanks to tailed mooring lines I could be safely berthed without risk of anchor tangles while on my own. Mooring lines are gods gift to yachts in the med but few and far between. 

iOS is a popular destination for young backpackers and I was soon to hear the nightlife loud and clear. Being on a quay for days is not my cup of tea as I feel hemmed in and long for the seclusion of an anchorage but I clean ( which always needs to be done) and then check out my neighbours. I see an Aussi flag on the quay and find Far Away II from Brisbane also with a women skipper - a rarity over here plus an acquaintance from RBYC as her crew  - the world is too small. So wonderful having an evening sharing stories with Jenny, Helen and Mike plus get my battery queries answered! Next day found a quiet beach the other side of the island, no tavernas or shops, just umbrellas in the sun ( cost 6 euro) with very few people by the bluest of water......bliss. To top off a lovely day my Austrian neighbours had a cockpit sixties music session with guitar playing and singing so I fell asleep to that instead of the crap noise of the bars.

Loving Santorini, Wendy and Peter returned and once again, in the absence of clear weather patterns, we decide our travel direction on the flip of a coin so head to Amorgos to our East in the hope of picking up the forecast westerly. Virtually no wind so stopped by a reef on the way and pete had a snorkel then a shallow spot for a quick swim for wendy and I. With a good breeze we set off but unfortunately it turned East so we arrived with a serious blow and ended up boat bound in a remote but secure anchorage for next 48 hrs however awoke in the morning to the singsong of goat bells. Love it.

In time we set off to Amorgos port and as always berthing Med style is my hiccup especially with wind abeam but we didn't cross anchors or hit anyone so all is well plus a bonus of a shower in taverna for 3 Euro. All is good.

We decide to hire a car to do a spin of the island. Wonderful chora village for lunch and then onto a monsetrary built into the cliff.

Sadly, after walking all the way up a steep flight of steps to get to the top we find it wasn't open!

Finally get wifi and phone connection and find I have a family concern in Aus so decision to head home for a week in between crew change. Massive challenge to find a safe berth but eventually backtrack to Leros where I can get a tailed mooring at a secure marina allowing me to leave Con Brio unattended. Wendy and pete ferry to Mykonos while I ferry to Kos and three planes later I am home visiting my dear dad who is unwell.