Goodbye greece

Greetings from Limnos, where i have to do passport stuff to transit out of Greece to head for Turkey, up the dardanelles and to Istanbul which is sadly the end of my journey. This top end of the med is quite different with few cruisers but we all seem to be taking the same route and now have met several for meals and great chats - it is like a tiny community, very supportive and ready o give advice, help or whatever. last night we arrived to a bay on Limnos after 8 hrs sailing with extremely strong winds. after we had nchored, the only other yachtie there already had their dingy in so came by & offered us the chance of a beach walk and then swam over our anchor to check it was dug in. we then got ogether to swap stories and info -such impromptu stuff is wonderful. It is great to eat local on occasions however while i love aubergine, stuffed zucchini, moussaka Et al, I am about due for a rare scotch fillet! Greece continues to be a wonderfully relaxed place to visit and no surprise that incidence of blood pressure and hear attack are low, there is a common feel of decay in the major towns of most of hese islands - it is very sad to see so many buildings that were not that long ago stately homes, offices or whatever, simply falling into disrepair and graffiti covers many, rubbish everywhere, parks grass not cut. Not sure whether this due to the recent economic issues or long term. The village houses are a mixture of falling down attached to the typical quaint island village home. There are many for sale and i gather many families live in australia so dont use their family  homes,  affordable prices however i gather it is often a cash purchase! someone must have given out new roof tiles cos many villages seem to be all sporting new roofs. Weather has been hot but still windy, the meltemi has hit early, so boats bouncing badly on quays and anchors but we have had some great sails albeit lots of zig zagging due to wind in wrong directions. One yacht near us in plomari dragged their anchor and were inches from hitting the quay while owners away for day. It is a really trickey issue and prompted discussion re etiquette of stepping on board another's yacht to help or not, as it could go horribly wrong. several owners i spoke to actually leave their key in the ignition just in case and hope someone will step in if needs be and these guys were relieved we intervened however still a dicey thing to do. Today we caught another boat's anchor as we reversed into berth then next boat did same so much cursing in the air - there really is an art to this berthing caper especially when strong cross winds, anchors are not laid straight or xs chain out. Our previous destination on Lesvos was  Mithimna - absolutely gorgeous spot with a small, quiet quay and the obligatory fort overlooking the village. See pics. The walk up to the fort is punishing in the heat but huge old wisteria vines make a glorious shady cover way along the cobbled streets. The quay sits by the fishing boat wharf and octopus hang everywhere drying out for the cafes nearby. Winds have not been favourable so we just had to suck it up and yesterday had a very long day from Lesvos to limnos with 30 - 40 kn and tomorrow same to get to turkey so my lazy cruise adventure has all but finished but what a fantastic ride. Didn't do much of the turkish coast, partly due to wind, partly the fact that i prefer the island anchorages but mostly cos it was so built up and touristy which was a surprise and not as inviting. This may be my last wifi chance so it is hurried and a jumble but off to find a cafe with wifi to post this plus retrieve my passport which the coast guard has and so far i have waited 6 hrs for ONE stamp so i can exit - Greece is seriously one extremely inefficient country. However........What a wonderful life this cruising is  - so full of opportunity for the most extraordinary experiences including washing sheets in a bucket, having very few showers, being grotty and spending my days in a space equivalent to an average kitchen.  See you all soon.